Private Cellar – Century

• • 99 Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate
    

    One of the wines of the vintage, but likely to prove slower evolving and more introverted than its 2019 counterpart, the 2020 Lafleur unwinds in the glass with aromas of cherries, raspberries, kirsch, black truffle, orange zest and vine smoke. Full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, it’s deep and concentrated, with a tightly wound core of fruit framed by rich, powdery tannins, concluding with a long, saline finish. This is another magical bottle from an estate that just seems to do everything right. Best after 20230.

  • 98 Decanter
    
    I was, to be honest, a little unsure of how the gravels here would react to the dry summer but the first hit of graphite and smoky berry fruit makes it clear Lafleur has taken the vintage in its stride. This is an excellent wine, barely showing its potential right now – it’s a big year, with knitted-down tannins, serious and powerful, not austere so much as layered, complex and full of hidden energy. The floral aromatics curl up after 10 minutes in the glass, as does bitter chocolate and crushed mint.
    
  • Barrel Sample: 98
  • 98 Vinous
    

    The 2020 Lafleur takes all the elements of this site and dials them up. All of the natural richness and textural intensity of the year comes through in a decidedly flamboyant, opulent Lafleur. It’s an immediate Lafleur, that much is obvious. I imagine the classic Lafleur bouquet will develop in bottle, as aeration starts to release some of the classic Bouchet (Cabernet Franc) notes that are such signatures. Today, the sumptuousness of Merlot really drives the wines’ balance, with the Bouchet felt mostly in the structural profile. I can’t wait to see how this ages. Best After 2030. Rating: 98+

  • 98 Jeb Dunnuck
    

    Looking at the flagship 2020 Chateau Lafleur, it’s based on 54% Merlot and 46% Bouchets (Cabernet Franc) that spent 15 months in just 25% new French oak. This brilliant Pomerol reveals a saturated ruby/purple hue as well as a dense, primordial bouquet of red and black fruits, tobacco leaf, iodine, flowers, and crushed stone-like minerality. A powerful, full-bodied, concentrated Lafleur built for the long haul, it has beautiful overall balance, lots of ripe tannins, and the vintage’s focused, pure, structured style front and center. It needs to be forgotten for a solid decade and will evolve for 40 years or more. Best After 2033.

  • 98 James Suckling
    

    There’s such beautiful clarity to this with freshly crushed grapes, flowers such as violets, and hints of chocolate. Aromatic. Full and linear with refined tannins that give length and focus. Poised. Such brightness.

Bordeaux Red Blend from Margaux, Bordeaux, France

98 points Decanter

A wonderfully complex, nimble and mature showing of Palmer that perfectly encapsulates its consistently seductive style. The depth and power of the nose relative to its age is stunning. Aromas of dark chocolate, sandalwood, tobacco leaf and sun-warmed stones. Impressively concentrated and plump on the palate, where dried blackberries, scorched earth and cocoa powder appear. (ML) 
 (2/2019)

96 points Wine Advocate

The 1966 continues to be one of the greatest examples of Palmer I have ever tasted. It is almost atypical for the 1966 vintage, which produced so many austere, angular wines. Not only rich and full, it is also delicate and loaded with complexity and finesse. This wine gets my nod as one of the best of the vintage, rivaled only by Latour and Lafleur. The haunting bouquet is similar to the 1961’s. (RP) 
 (12/1997)

96 points Vinous

The 1966 Palmer is probably justifiably eclipsed by the legendary 1961, but this is one of the greats. Several bottles tasted, the last at the Palmer vertical in London. Introverted black fruit commingles with sous-bois and autumn leaves, though there is more vigor compared to the 1970. Lovely delineation. The palate is medium-bodied, and like many 1966s, there is strictness and linearity aplenty. Yes, there is a touch of austerity, yet the focus, freshness and precision on the slightly ferrous finish is quite tantalizing. (NM) 
 (8/2023)

95 points John Gilman

I have had the ’66 Palmer as often as any of the great post-war clarets, but our October tasting was the first time I had tasted this beautiful wine since a lovely magnum back in the fall of 2003. It is one of the interesting characteristics of the world of wine that certain great bottles seem to cross one’s path with relative regularity, while others may be chanced upon once or twice in a lifetime. For whatever reason, the ’66 Palmer has been one of those wines to which I seem to be aligned, as I may have fifty or sixty notes on this great wine dating back since my very earliest days of serious wine tasting. In contrast, I have only tasted the ’61 Palmer on a couple of occasions over the same span. In any event, the bouquet on the 1966 is absolutely magnificent, as it offers up a perfumed mélange of sweet black cherries, cassis, mulberries, some cigar box, lovely soil tones, black truffles, a touch of nutskin and a strong topnote of violets that soars from the glass. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, deep, sweet and beautifully focused, with lovely structure, magnificent complexity, great depth at the core, and a long, refined and nearly endless finish of compelling dimension and grip. 
 (1/2008)

Jancis Robinson

Even more obviously Margaux, possibly Palmer, than the 1970. Extremely sweet and gentle without anything in excess. Seriously seductive on the nose – even the final pour almost an hour after the first one. Quite exceptional length. This just curls itself around the palate like the most languorous cat. I remember enjoying this wine as long ago as the late 1970s. What an admirably long life it has had. 19/20 points (JR) 
 (8/2007)

Pinot Noir from Burgundy, Chambolle Musigny, France

97 points John Gilman

The 2021 Musigny “Vieilles Vignes” from Domaine de Comte de Georges de Vogüé is a brilliant wine in the making. The bouquet soars from the glass in a blaze of red and black cherries, sweet stem tones, gamebird, iron, mustard seed, woodsmoke, a beautiful base of limestone minerality and cedary oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and vibrant, with a great core of fruit, stunning soil inflection, ripe, suave tannins and impeccable balance on the long, focused and beautifully complex finish. This is a great vintage of Musigny in the making. 2035- 2100. 
 (1/2023)

97 points James Suckling

A giant amongst the 2021 Grand Cru red Burgundies, but still a sleeping giant. In spite of the stunning concentration on the rather full-bodied palate for the vintage, the stony minerality and bright acidity gives this great drive at the very long finish. A hint of green pepper from the use of whole clusters on the nose. Try from 2026.(SP 
 (7/2023)

97 points Tim Atkin

Concentrated and serious on the nose with crushed silex, grated spices, bramble and black plum, the palate is surprisingly finessed with graceful acidity and svelte tannins. Yet, it is as intense as ever and easily needs a decade to begin unwinding its almost ferocious fruit density. Jean Lupatelli is working on understanding the differences in the many geographic segments of the domaine’s large holding, which will add additional finesse in the cellar work in the years to come 
 (1/2023)

95-97 points Jasper Morris

Three tanks were made, in order of picking, then assembled as there is no terroir logic to them, though this has changed for 2022. A fine bright and reasonably deep purple. Classy with just a touch of pepper. Less immediately compelling that some previous vintages, but it is growing steadily in the glass. There is a huge volume of red and black fruit intertwined with a fresh mineral streak running through the middle, supplying excellent length to complete the job. Splendid stuff! A firmer finish but there is plenty of time for that to resolve. Drink from 2030-2040. 
 (11/2022)

95-97 points Vinous

 The 2021 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru underwent a picked piecemeal from the 30 different plots to find the best order that actually was linked to vine age. It has a gorgeous bouquet with brambly red fruit, loam, blood oranges and subtle graphite aromas. Superb delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins, fresh citrus like acidity, tensile and focused. This is a very classic, mineral-driven Musigny with surfeit of salinity that gets the saliva flowing on the finish. So bright on the finish. (NM)
 (1/2023)

92-95 points Burghound

 Note: from an incredible 6.46 ha parcel, which doesn’t include the .67 ha section planted to chardonnay his is compositionally similar to the Chambolle “1er”, but the brooding nose only grudgingly displays both notably better complexity and more floral nuances as well a background hint of kirsch. As is always the case, there is markedly more size, weight and density to the bigger-bodied and notably more powerful flavors that conclude in a very backward, compact and even more mineral-driven finish. This is still in need of additional élevage, but it should ultimately be quite impressive. 
 (1/2023)

94 points Decanter

 When I tasted, new winemaker Jean Lupatelli was hard at work deconstructing the massive de Vogüé holdings in Musigny. The domaine is now moving to vinify each section separately in smaller tanks, and the results are bound to impress. We sampled three cuvées separated by vine age; their approximate blend was superb, with an expressive currant and blackberry fruit aroma, abundant notes of violets, and an accent of liquorice and mineral. The older vines brought density, weight, and tannin; the younger ones, lively energy. (CC) 
 (5/2022)

92-94 points Wine Advocate

 Exhibiting notes of sweet berries and cherries mingled with notions of rose petals, musk, blood orange and spices, the 2021 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru is medium to full-bodied, satiny and perfumed, with excellent concentration, lively acid and sweet, supple tannins. Impressively sensual and effortless, it represents a very strong start for Jean Lupatelli, the estate’s new régisseur. (WK) 92-94+ 
(1/2023

Pinot Noir from CA – No longer produced

93 Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate

Grenache from Central Coast, California

99 Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate

Premier Grand Cru from Pauillac, France

100 points Wine Advocate
 Administrator Frederic Engerer says the 2003 is “the sexiest Latour ever made.” He also described it as “the 1990 without any brettanomyces.” I loved this wine from the barrel and was fortunate enough to be able to purchase a small quantity, enjoying every bottle I have had. A profound example of Chateau Latour, the full-bodied, opulent 2003 is already performing well at age eleven, which is somewhat atypical. The pH is a relatively high 3.8, which also indicates low acidity. The wine is very ripe, but not over-ripe, offers great freshness, and lots of creme de cassis and camphor as well as hints of blackberries and chocolate. Dense, thick and unctuously textured, this staggering Latour is undeniably the most sumptuous, opulent wine made here since the 1982 or 1961. Drink it over the next two decades. (RP) 
 (8/2014)

99 points James Suckling
 Fascinating nose of fresh flowers, currants, and sandalwood. Full bodied, with a seamless core of fruit that goes on and on. Love the polished tannins and the beauty here. A powerful and rich wine with so much class and finesse for such a hot vintage. Pull the cork after 2016. 
 (3/2011)

98 points Wine Spectator
 Intense aromas of blackberry, licorice, currant and mineral. Full-bodied, with very well-integrated tannins and a long, long finish. Very refined and beautiful. Goes on for minutes. This reminds me of the fabulous 1996. But even better. Best after 2012. (JS) 
 (3/2006)

97 points Int’l Wine Cellar
 Red-ruby. Explosive aromas of plum liqueur, currant, minerals and lead pencil. Huge, lush, sweet and utterly seamless; this has the palate-caressing texture of liquid velvet. About as deep as this extreme vintage gets. Finishes with noble, compellingly sweet tannins and great length. This is amazing wine, and only its exotic character prevented me from giving it an even higher score. Interestingly, the IPT here is 65, compared to 67 for the 2005. But this voluminous and powerful wine will be more fun to drink than the 2005 for many years simply due to its sensual appeal, even if the 2005 should ultimately surpass it in verve, minerality and overall aromatic complexity. (Incidentally, Latour’s third wine, simply called Pauillac, is extremely good in both 2005 and 2003-the former vintage showing terrific energy and loads of early personality, and the latter fat, round and exotic, with what Engerer described as a ‘Napa nose.’) 
 (5/2006)

 

Chardonnay from Burgundy, France

96 points Tim Atkin

Aromatically reserved when I tasted this in October 2022, the palate was reassuringly more forthcoming. Toasted bread, pastry crust and poached apples brush across the palate with a solid minerality and notable tension tightening up the flavorful, palate-clinging finish. Céline has only a tiny morsel of Le Montrachet, but it is not to be missed if you can find it. This is textbook Montrachet (CC) 
 (1/2023)

92-94 points Vinous

There is just one barrel of 2021 Montrachet Grand Cru this year (normally there is one and a half). It has an intense bouquet, though it doesn’t quite have the panache of the Bâtard-Montrachet, a hint of menthol emerging with time. The palate is well balanced with a dab of stem ginger on the entry, fine depth, powerful and concentrated with an intense finish. (NM) 
 (1/2023)

93 points Burghound

(from .08 ha of vines on the Chassagne side). This is aromatically similar to the Bâtard with the addition of a touch of mineral reduction. The succulent and sleek middleweight flavors are delicious, intense and well-detailed but not especially dense before culminating in a bone-dry, lemon and linear finale that isn’t skinny but it’s presently a bit lean. Montrachet typically fleshes out substantially with bottle age and this should do that as well but it’s not clear that there is necessarily better potential here compared to either the Criots or the Bâtard. 
 (6/2023)

Pinot Noir from Burgundy, France

97 points John Gilman

The 2021 Musigny “Vieilles Vignes” from Domaine de Comte de Georges de Vogüé is a brilliant wine in the making. The bouquet soars from the glass in a blaze of red and black cherries, sweet stem tones, gamebird, iron, mustard seed, woodsmoke, a beautiful base of limestone minerality and cedary oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and vibrant, with a great core of fruit, stunning soil inflection, ripe, suave tannins and impeccable balance on the long, focused and beautifully complex finish. This is a great vintage of Musigny in the making. 2035- 2100. 
(1/2023)

97 points James Suckling

A giant amongst the 2021 Grand Cru red Burgundies, but still a sleeping giant. In spite of the stunning concentration on the rather full-bodied palate for the vintage, the stony minerality and bright acidity gives this great drive at the very long finish. A hint of green pepper from the use of whole clusters on the nose. Try from 2026.(SP 
 (7/2023)

97 points Tim Atkin

Concentrated and serious on the nose with crushed silex, grated spices, bramble and black plum, the palate is surprisingly finessed with graceful acidity and svelte tannins. Yet, it is as intense as ever and easily needs a decade to begin unwinding its almost ferocious fruit density. Jean Lupatelli is working on understanding the differences in the many geographic segments of the domaine’s large holding, which will add additional finesse in the cellar work in the years to come 
 (1/2023)

95-97 points Jasper Morris

Three tanks were made, in order of picking, then assembled as there is no terroir logic to them, though this has changed for 2022. A fine bright and reasonably deep purple. Classy with just a touch of pepper. Less immediately compelling that some previous vintages, but it is growing steadily in the glass. There is a huge volume of red and black fruit intertwined with a fresh mineral streak running through the middle, supplying excellent length to complete the job. Splendid stuff! A firmer finish but there is plenty of time for that to resolve. Drink from 2030-2040. 
 (11/2022)

95-97 points Vinous

The 2021 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru underwent a picked piecemeal from the 30 different plots to find the best order that actually was linked to vine age. It has a gorgeous bouquet with brambly red fruit, loam, blood oranges and subtle graphite aromas. Superb delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins, fresh citrus like acidity, tensile and focused. This is a very classic, mineral-driven Musigny with surfeit of salinity that gets the saliva flowing on the finish. So bright on the finish. (NM) 
 (1/2023)

92-95 points Burghound

Note: from an incredible 6.46 ha parcel, which doesn’t include the .67 ha section planted to chardonnay his is compositionally similar to the Chambolle “1er”, but the brooding nose only grudgingly displays both notably better complexity and more floral nuances as well a background hint of kirsch. As is always the case, there is markedly more size, weight and density to the bigger-bodied and notably more powerful flavors that conclude in a very backward, compact and even more mineral-driven finish. This is still in need of additional élevage, but it should ultimately be quite impressive. 
 (1/2023)

94 points Decanter

When I tasted, new winemaker Jean Lupatelli was hard at work deconstructing the massive de Vogüé holdings in Musigny. The domaine is now moving to vinify each section separately in smaller tanks, and the results are bound to impress. We sampled three cuvées separated by vine age; their approximate blend was superb, with an expressive currant and blackberry fruit aroma, abundant notes of violets, and an accent of liquorice and mineral. The older vines brought density, weight, and tannin; the younger ones, lively energy. (CC) 
 (5/2022)

92-94 points Wine Advocate

Exhibiting notes of sweet berries and cherries mingled with notions of rose petals, musk, blood orange and spices, the 2021 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru is medium to full-bodied, satiny and perfumed, with excellent concentration, lively acid and sweet, supple tannins. Impressively sensual and effortless, it represents a very strong start for Jean Lupatelli, the estate’s new régisseur. (WK) 92-94+ 
 (1/2023)

Bordeaux Red Blend from Napa Valley, California

Cabernet from the Saint Emilion region of Bordeaux, France

100 points Wine Advocate

The 2005 Ausone is a perfect wine of the vintage. It displays crushed rock, spring flowers, blueberry and blackberry fruit, a full-bodied mouthfeel, stunning purity and richness, and perfect harmony among all of its component parts (acidity, tannin, wood, alcohol and extract). Still youthful, but oh, so promising, this wine should be set aside for another decade and drunk over the following 50-75 years. (RP) 
 (6/2015)

100 points The Wine Independent

The 2005 Ausone is a blend of 55% Cabernet Franc and 45% Merlot. Deep garnet-brick in color, it needs a lot of swirling to coax out the most evocative perfume of Morello cherries, raspberry preserves, redcurrant jelly, and red roses with hints of aniseed, forest floor, truffles, and iron ore. Medium to full-bodied, it has a very firm, grainy texture and an incredibly lively backbone. So, so beautifully perfumed, it finishes incredibly long and mineral-laced. This undoubtedly already offers a WOW experience, but I would give it another 5-7 years in bottle to truly let that perfume emerge, then drink it over the following 40-50-years+. Located on the limestone plateau over the town of Saint Emilion, it covers only 17 acres and has been owned exclusively by the Vauthiers (Alain) since the mid-1990s. It is usually composed of 50-60% Cabernet Franc with Merlot making up the rest of the blend. (LPB) 
 (7/2022)

100 points Vinous

The 2005 Ausone is magnificent. A wine of soaring intensity and class, the 2005 dazzles from the very first taste. The aromatics alone are captivating, with notes of cinnamon, mint, crushed rocks, blood orange, mocha and incense. Graceful and stately in bearing, the 2005 boasts tremendous purity and breathtaking balance. Readers will find a stunning Saint-Émilion that is just at the beginning of what promises to be a very long drinking window that will be measured in decades. It is a towering achievement from the Vauthier family. (AG) 
 (4/2021)

100 points Wine Spectator

I love the tobacco, berry, cigar box, toasty oak, ripe fruit and fresh mushroom flavors in this full-bodied red, which has ultralayered tannins and vanilla, new oak and berry character. Powerful and superconcentrated, with great length. This is a muscular, full-throttle wine, racing very, very fast. (JS) 
 (5/2008)

Chardonnay from Puligny-Montrachet, Cote de Beaune, Cote d’Or, Burgundy, France

Rhone White Blends from California